INTERLAKEN

Couched between Lake Thun and Lake Brienz in the Bernese Highlands is the fabled resort of Interlaken. With a whole network of trains, funiculars, boats, cable-cars at your disposal, Interlaken can be your springboard for journeys into the the formidable Bernese Alps, ruled by three immense peaks: Jungfrau, Eiger and Mönch.

You can ride the highest railway in Europe up to Jungfraujoch to see these monsters and the Aletsch Glacier in all their majesty. And in the resort there’s a mountain of things to do like steamboat trips to waterfalls, hikes, kayaking, swimming, canyoning and even paragliding, all in front an awe-inspiring backdrop.

Top Things to Do in Interlaken 

PART 1

1. Harder Kulm

Interlaken’s own mountain can be ascended in little more than ten minutes via a funicular.In that short space of time you’ll climb more than 730 metres in a car with large windows showing the full beauty of the mountainous landscapes.At the upper station, at an elevation of 1322 metres an exhilarating scene will be laid out before you, from Lake Brienz and Lake Thun far below to the nearby Emmental Alps and the sky-scraping Bernese Alps like Eiger and Jungrau in the distance.The viewing platform projects over the slope and has a glass floor, and there’s also a panoramic restaurant up here in a Romantic medieval style.

2. Schynige Platte

Wilderswil on the southern fringe of Interlaken is the northern terminus for a 115-year-old rack railway that winds into the Bernese Alps.Despite its age the Schynige Platte Railway is still one of the highest lines in Switzerland, and needless to say the vistas of peaks and mountain pasture are breathtaking.The end goal is Schynige Platte, a ridge at 2,000 metres on the Schwarzhorn mountain.There are ample reasons to make the trip: To come to look down on Interlaken, which seems tiny from up here, and to view mountains like Schreckhorn, the northernmost European peak over 4,000 metres.There’s also an Alpine garden, with 650 flowering plants, another panoramic restaurant, and the ridge is the trailhead for short and long hikes to see more of Eiger, Jungfrau and Mönch.

3. Lake Brienz

Lake Brienz to the east of Interlaken has a turquoise tone and mountain views.Steamboats have been chugging across this lake since the 1830s and there’s now a small armada of five vessels from the first decades of the 20th century.These set off for destinations around the lake, like Giessbach, site of the castle-like Grand Hotel Giessbach and a waterfall that plunges 500 metres to the lake.The hotel is served by a funicular that goes back to 1879. And if you’re feeling fresh you could take a memorable walk or bike ride back along the southern shore of Lake Brienz in a few hours, or cross to Oberried and catch the train to Interlaken.

4. Lake Thun

In the west is Lake Thun, which has a deep blue colour and catches the prevailing breeze.So no wonder this lake is favoured by windsurfers and sailors, while the shore, enveloped by woodland, is dotted with bathing areas to entice you in summer.Out on the water, free of any obstruction you can bask in the superb panorama of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau.This is a sight that needs to be contemplated slowly, so catch a steamboat over the lake and spend some time in Thun.There’s much to love about this historic town, from the stately Schadau Park and Thun Castle to the cute Altstadt around a town hall from the 1500s.

5. Jungfraujoch

Interlaken Ost railway station is the departure point for a train ride of epic scope.Amazingly, the Interlaken Line is more than 100 years old, and will lift you in stages through landscapes that almost beggar belief, up to the Jungfraujoch saddle at 3,466 metres.This final railway station is the highest in Europe, at the culmination of a seven-kilometre tunnel through the mountain.From there you can enter the Top of Europe Building, which overlooks the permanently frozen expanse of the Aletsch Glacier in the UNESCO Natural World Heritage property of Jungfrau – Aletsch – Bietschhorn.There are restaurants and attractions inside, and you can then ride the elevator to the Sphinx Observatory for jaw-dropping 360° indoor and outdoor views.

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6. St Beatus Caves

Right above the northeastern of Lake Thun is a karst cave system that got its name from the 6th-century Irish monk, Beatus.He is claimed to have lived here, and according to legend ousted a dragon when he moved in.The caves have a kilometre-long walkway, impressive chambers where you’ll come across strange concretions, dark chasms and underground waterfalls.Also on the site is the Cave Museum, documenting the history of the caves, how they were explored in modern times and explaining their wildlife and geology.The restaurant is in a loggia gazing out over Lake Thun and its mountain backdrop.

7. Unterseen

West of Interlaken and on the shore of Lake Thun is this pretty medieval town, which has a quieter, less touristy character.Unterseen is essentially a suburb of Interlaken, across the Aare by Interlaken West Train Station.On Marktbrunnen, the old market place, stands the rustic tower of a 13th-century church, as well as the Stadthaus.Now a restaurant, this used to be the town hall, but actually started as an inn for cattle drivers in the 15th century.Also on the square is a museum about the birth and growth of tourism in Interlaken from the 18th century on.Amble around the streets for a while, checking out the chalets and their exaggerated eaves and calling in at local amenities like bakeries.

INTERLAKEN

Top things to do in Interlaken 

PART 2

8. Summer Activities

Come to Interlaken from June to September and there’s a dizzying amount of things to do outside.Top of your list should be to rent a kayak or stand-up paddleboard for Lake Thun or Brienz, and there are lots of companies to consult for this.On land you might be ready for something more exciting than a simple hike.The terrain around the lakes couldn’t be better suited to canyoning: You’ll don safety gear and a neoprene suit and rappel down waterfalls and gorges.The sharp drops that encircle Interlaken’s lakes are a launch pad for paragliders, whose colourful chutes are a common sight in summer.This isn’t an activity for the faint of heart but is worth every penny if you can muster the courage for a tandem flight.

9. Höheweg

This street and promenade is like the backbone of Interlaken, diagonal and parallel to the Aare as it flows from Lake Brienz to Lake Thun.Walking in the direction of Unterseen, the left side of Höheweg has been kept free of construction.There’s a line of flower gardens and parks like Höhematte which leaves clear views to the Bernese Alps.And on the right side is a string of high-class hotels interspersed with boutiques, bars and cafes, as well as Interlaken’s casino.

10. Ice Magic

In winter it’s normal for towns to set up temporary ice rinks, but Interlaken goes way beyond that.On Höheweg from the middle of December to the end of February, Ice Magic is a small world of ice.There are five rinks at Ice Magic, all interconnected by 450 metres of ice ramps.In the evenings you can hire a lane at the Bavarian curling rink.Unlike the Olympic sport this game is easy to pick up and more like bowling on ice.After a fun couple of hours zipping around the ice you can warm up with hot chocolate or mulled wine, or share fondue at the chalet-style eatery.

11. Weissenau Nature Reserve

Away from the tourist trail and souvenir shops you find a moment of peace and solitude on the east shore of Lake Thun, just outside Unterseen.The Weissenau Nature Reserve is a wetland site blessed with sumptuous views of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau.Not many people make it to this corner of the lake, so when it’s warm can trail over the wooden walkway and admire the lake, birdlife and wildflowers in your own time.The reserve also holds the ruins of Weissanau Castle, a Swiss national heritage site, dating back to the 1200s and which you can scale to survey the tree canopy and Lake Thun.

12. Justistal Alpine Dairy

Get up bright and early and take the twisting mountain road to Beatenberg for a tour of an authentic Alpine dairy.Tours are only given first thing in the morning, starting at 07:15. You’ll strike out on an invigorating walk in the pasture to view the herd with a guide, before meeting the “dairyman”. He’ll show you behind the scenes of a real Emmental dairy, and the cheese made here will be waiting for you on the table for a communal breakfast at the end of the tour.

13. Winter Sport

Now, Interlaken isn’t a ski resort per se, but its amenities, location and transport connections make it a good place to plant yourself for day or two of skiing or snowboarding in winter.The Jungfrau Ski Region is on the radar and incorporates Grindelwald First, Kleine Scheidegg-Männlichen and Mürren-Schilthorn.Even closer is Beatenberg-Niederhorn to the north of Interlaken, which has slopes that will suit families and newcomers to skiing.Here on the north side of Lake Thun and at Spiez to the south there are also cross-country trails, many overlooking the lake.If you’re willing to go the extra mile there’s an awesome 15-kilometre toboggan run from the Faulhorn peak down to Grindelwald.

14. Spiez

On Lake Thun’s south shore, Spiez is a picturesque town wrapped in vineyards and reached by car, train or boat in a matter of minutes from Interlaken West.The town is crested by the powerful square keep of its castle, which was first built in the 13th century and gained its current appearance in the 1600s.This is well worth a visit, along with the 1,000-year-old Romanesque church, and has information in three languages about the succession of noble families that owned the castle under the Kingdom of Burgundy and Habsburg Empire.There’s also a museum about Spiez’s winemaking history, and trails begin right in the town and wind off into the Niederhorn Range.

15. Panoramabrücke Sigriswil

This new panoramic footbridge on the above Lake Thun is part of a plan to make the lakeshore even more accessible for pedestrians.Three of seven bridges have been constructed so far, and Panoramabrücke Sigriswil is the most impressive to date.It soars 180 metres over the Gummi Gorge and is 330 metres in length.You’ll never tire of the view of the Bernese Alps looming over the deep blue of Lake Thun, no matter how many times you admire it, and this bridge is the one of the best spots to do exactly that.The bridge is on a path that will carry you down to the charming town of Oberhofen, which has a beach and a castle on the water.

GERMANY

PART 1

Black Forest

The Black Forest gets its name from the oppressive canopy of evergreens looming above the forest floor. Home to elaborate cuckoo clocks, striking half-timbered houses, ruined castles and quaint towns, the Black Forest is a magical land full of cultural traditions

Baden-Baden

Baden-Baden, one of Europe’s most fashionable spa towns, is an ideal base for exploring the Black Forest and the perfect place to stay for maximum pampering.

Bad Wildbad

Not quite as well known as Baden-Baden, Bad Wildabad is another popular spa town and a cheaper option for a home-base in the north of the forest. A tunnel cleverly diverts through traffic so that the area feels as isolated from the world as possible.

Calw

Calw sits in the north of the Black Forest with a reputation as being one of the forest’s prettiest towns. Nobel Prize-winning novelist Hermann Hesse (1877-1962), who wrote Siddhartha among many other books, was born in Calw. The town features a museum and a statue dedicated the famous author. The picturesque market square is a great place to start your tour of the city.

Baiersbronn

This idyllic mountain resort is made up of nine separate villages, and the recent addition of high-end hotels and bed and breakfasts serving incredible cuisine have put Baiersbronn on the map. The area boasts an incredible eight Michelin stars in total, being home to two restaurants with three stars, and one with two stars. 

Freiburg

Freiburg is a university town and an excellent base from which to explore the southern side of the Black Forest. The cheerful town sits at the bottom of the Black Forest’s wooded slopes and vineyards, and it is chock-full of gabled, half-timbered houses and twisting cobblestone streets. The local student population has given the town a lively nightlife scene, but anyone can enjoy the lovely beer gardens along the canal. Freiburg has been named Germany’s warmest city, with unusually high levels of sunshine. As a result, it is a center for solar energy. 

GERMANY

PART 2

Badische Weinstrasse

Badische Weinstrasse translates to ‘Badische Wine Road’, and the 99-mile (160-kilometer) route is located in the foothills of the Black Forest. The purpose-built Weinstrasse was created in 1954 to meander through the wine-growing areas of the Black Forest and end up in Weil am Rhein, near the Swiss border. Travelers can drive from Baden-Baden to Freiburg along this alternative route, and instead of dull motorway sights they will pass by historic castle ruins and peaceful vineyards.

Titisee Lake

This glacially carved lake in the southern region of the Black Forest is one of the area’s most popular resorts. The lake is around 1.2 miles (2 kilometers) long and 0.6 miles (1 kilometer) wide, and is the largest natural lake in the Black Forest. Travelers flock to Titisee to swim, windsurf and sail in good weather. Occasionally, in the winter, the lake will freeze over enough to allow ice skating.

Triberg Falls

Germany’s highest waterfall plummets down a 535-foot (163-meter) mountain slope into the valley of Triberg. The falls are formed by the Gutach River and located at the head of the Kinzig and Gutach valleys. Enjoy the view of the gorgeous natural scene from the bottom of the falls. Come after a heavy rain or a snow melt to see the falls at their best (and loudest). The main entrance can be reached easily from the city center in Triberg, a town that caters to tourists with a huge number of cuckoo-clock shops.

Kinzig and Gutach Valley

Take the scenic drive along the Schwarzwaldhochstrasse from Baden-Baden to see the central Black Forest region’s quaint towns. Kinzig and Gutach Valley are heavily forested areas where many traditional Black Forest customs originated, like the cuckoo clock and the Bollenhut, a ladies’ hat topped with red pom-poms. In these sleepy towns, visitors will feel the magical and mysterious nature of the Black Forest come to life. While visiting the region, make a stop in the brewery town of Alpirsbach, and visit Schiltach to see classic examples of timber houses that burst with color and character.

Heidelberg

Heidelberg, an old town on the river Neckar, is the epitome of German romanticism. Home to the country’s oldest university, The University of Heidelberg, and one of the most popular castle ruins in Germany, this town is filled with majestic cityscapes and a palpable historic atmosphere. The red-hued castle, located on the northern slope of the Königstuhl mountain, was destroyed and rebuilt over several hundred years, so it has a mix of Gothic and Renaissance styles. Visit the castle gardens for a fantastic view of the city. Take a walk through the baroque-style Old Town and view the historic stone bridge, built in the 1780s. Or take a stroll along Philosophers’ Walk, a famous ramble along the banks of the Neckar where Heidelberg’s philosophers and professors came to contemplate their high-minded ideas.

Mt. TITLIS

Titlis is a mountain of the Uri Alps, located on the border between the cantons of  Obwalden and Bern. At 3,238 metres (10,623 ft) above sea level, it is the highest summit of the range north of the Susten Pass, between the Bernese Oberland and Central Switzerland. 

What to expect at the Titlis?

The Titlis is a high alpine attraction and viewing point. The cable car to the Titlis departs from the town of Engelberg, about 45 minutes from Lucerne. The last section of the cable car features a revolving cable car, allowing you to enjoy the views all around.

Activities at the Titlis

This is what to expect once you have reached the Titlis:

1. §       An amazing view of a high alpine world of rocks and snow;
2. §       The 'Ice Flyer' chairlift allows you to 'fly' over the glacier and see it up close. The fare is not included in standard cable car tickets to the Titlis. The lift takes you to the Glacier Park, where you can enjoy the snow using snow tubes, sledges and more. This is the place to go to for guaranteed snow. There is often snow at other places at the top too, but not always as the climate is getting warmer. In Winter, the park is located at the mid station Trübsee instead;
3. §      You can take a walk into the Glacier Cave; a tunnel in the ice of the glacier;
4. §      The Titlis Cliff Walk is a spectacular suspension bridge to see the mountains from a different perspective;
5. §      There are several shops and restaurants;
6. §       Several hiking trails start or end at the mid station of the cable car, Trübsee. One can walk the Trübsee and combine that with a visit to the Titlis;  In Summer, there are several sporty activities near Trübsee. You can enjoy the spectacular zipline or rent a rowing boat to explore the Trübsee, the lake near the mid station. Booking in advance is recommended.

Preparation

Check the weather forecast as there's no point in going up if the Titlis is covered in clouds. Dress in multiple thinner layers so that you can adapt to the different temperatures throughout the day. Note that it can be very windy at the top. Take along gloves, sun glasses and perhaps a winter sports hat. Solid shoes help too.

Allow at least two hours to visit the Titlis. This does not include the time to get there. It's either a day trip or half a day trip, depending on your departure time and pace.

The Titlis station is located at an altitude of 3032 m. Anyone can suffer from (light) altitude sickness from about 2000 m. Usually it helps to take things slow and sit down for a while. Special precautions apply to children under 2 years old, as well as people who are pregnant or in poor health: before visiting areas over 2500 m, you'd better consult your doctor. In most cases though, staying at such altitudes for just a few hours is no problem.

LUCERN

PART 1

There’s no denying it: Lucerne plays into every cliché about the romantic Swiss getaway. Perfectly poised at the foot of the Alps in the Swiss-German speaking part of central Switzerland, the city’s namesake lake reflects the snowy peaks—including Mount Pilatus and Mount Titlis, popular day trip destinations. The River Reuss cuts through the painted façades of Old Town, where couples huddle together over rösti and hot chocolate at riverside cafés.

Lucerne is as beautiful as its location is strategic. From the Zurich airport, hop aboard the clockwork-efficient Swiss railway system for the hour-long ride to Lucerne. Consider the Swiss Travel Pass, which allows unlimited travel on trains, buses, and boats as well as discounts on mountain railways.

Here’s how to spend a perfect weekend in Lucerne.

Day 1: Sightsee along the river

10 a.m. Start your exploration at the Old Town (Altstadt)—a warren of medieval squares and cobblestone alleys lined with brightly frescoed façades. Most of the Old Town is spread across the north bank of the River Reuss. On the south bank is the 17th-century baroque Jesuit Church of Saint Francis Xavier, defined by its dull-green twin onion domes and grand marble stucco interiors. The flower-lined, 14th-century wooden Chapel Bridge (Kapellbrücke) runs diagonally across the river, past the octagonal Water Tower (Wasserturm) to a string of hotels and cafés lining the north bank.

Further down the river is Lucerne’s second covered wooden footbridge, the Spreuer Bridge (Mill Bridge), built-in 1408 and painted with triangular panels depicting grinning skeletons in everyday human scenes. Next to the bridge, the Needle Dam regulates the water level of Lake Lucerne with wooden water spikes. In winter, riverside stalls sell marron, or roasted chestnuts.

12 p.m. Cross either bridge to linger over cheese platters and hot chocolate at alfresco riverside cafés, where menus are scrawled on blackboards and dragged over to your table. The brick-roofed Rathaus, the 17th-century town hall and meeting place, now houses its own brewery and restaurant in the basement.

3 p.m. Behind the line of hotels along the river, Lucerne’s centuries-old squares—complete with fountains and elaborately frescoed buildings—now house boutiques and cafés. Many of the façades are restored originals, depicting stories of the tradesmen who lived and worked here. At Kappellplatz (Chapel Square), the site of the annual Lucerne carnival, stands the iconic Fritschi fountain, the intricately painted Fritschi restaurant in a 17th-century building, and the nearly-900-year-old St. Peter’s Chapel. Continue the sightseeing tour with the 17th-century Hofkirche and its neighbouring


 Lion Memorial, which commemorates the Swiss guards who fell fighting for King Louis XVI during the French Revolution. The adjacent Glacier Garden displays natural remnants from the last Ice Age 20,000 years ago—polished boulders and deep glacial potholes, fossilized mussels, and palm leaves. Children will enjoy the Alpineum Museum just opposite the monument, especially its lifelike diorama of Alpine peaks. Finish up at the Bourbaki Panorama, a gigantic circular painting of the Franco-Prussian War.

6 p.m. Try traditional fondue at Zunfthausrestaurant Pfistern, a restaurant located in a 14th-century guild house, or take in a quiet dinner of rösti by the riverside at Wirtshaus Taube. For dessert, head off in search of Swiss chocolates and specialty cheeses. The decadent creations at Max Chocolatier and Heini are handmade. Chäs Barmettler is an independent cheese shop with a range of regional variants, including the famed Swiss Gruyère.

LUCERN

PART 2

Day 2: Wander in museums and cruise the lake

9 a.m. Head to the railway station (Bahnhof) for a morning spent enjoying the city’s vibrant art scene, starting with the ultra-modernist, steel and glass Kultur- und Kongresszentrum Luzern, or KKL. The popular concert and festival venue also houses the Museum of Art, which constantly changes its contemporary art exhibits. Five minutes away, the Rosengart Collection showcases more than 300 works by 19th- and 20th- century great masters, including Pablo Picasso, Paul Klee, and Pierre-Auguste Renoir.

12 p.m. People-watch along the lively waterfront promenade, where kids rollerblade and old men play pétanque, a ball game similar to bocce. Stop in at the art deco Hotel Montana for lunch at the chic Scala restaurant. The lamb chops with leek, apple, and beetroot gnocchi and the potato gnocchi with celery cream and horseradish are equally delicious whether enjoyed on the open-air lakeview terrace or in the heated conservatory.

1 p.m. Take in Lucerne’s scenic charms with an hour-long lake cruise on the panorama yacht M.S. Saphir, which departs from just across the Bahnof. With a convertible roof left open on days when the weather is good, the cruise covers the main sights, includes an audio guide, and affords grand views of the Alps.

3 p.m. After disembarking, walk or bus to the Swiss Museum of Transport, which traces the history of road, rail, water, and air navigation through simulators and multimedia displays. Don’t miss the vintage locomotives. The museum complex includes a film theater and planetarium, but the grand bonanza for kids is the Chocolate Adventure, an interactive ride exploring the history and making of chocolate through visuals, smells, and tastings. Grab a light bite at the in-house restaurant Mercato, or take snacks across the street for a picnic at the lovely lakeside park where ducks waddle in and out of the water.

6 p.m. Wander back to Old Town for dinner and a show at Stadtkeller, a venue for live music and traditional folk performances, including yodelers and alphorn players. End the night with a characteristically Swiss dessert: a cheese platter accompanied by dollops of relish, jelly, walnut, fig, mustard, and bread.

Day 3: Take an Alpine train ride

10 a.m. Towering over Lucerne, 6,995-foot-high Mount Pilatus makes for a great day trip. Board a train from the Luzern Bahnhof to Alpnachstad, then transfer to the fire-engine-red Pilatus Railway, a 126-year-old cogwheel railroad—the world’s steepest, it trundles up the mountainside at angles sometimes as sharp as 48 degrees, gaining more than 5,000 feet of elevation. Operating from May to November, the train lets visitors watch the meadows slowly give way to Alpine vegetation. In off months, take the bus to Kriens to catch a cable car up to the peak of Pilatus.

3 p.m. Walk the winding Dragon Path around the mountain and through tunnels with large windows and viewing platforms that afford stunning vistas of Lucerne far below. Artwork by noted Swiss artist Hans Erni adorns the walls with depictions of the dragon legend.

In summer, indulge your active side at the Rope Park or the Toboggan Run. Grab a bite at the upscale Queen Victoria restaurant at Hotel Pilatus-Kulm or the self-service restaurant with a sun terrace at the Hotel Bellevue. Stop in the roofed Panoramic Gallery, which links the two hotels, for breathtaking views of the mighty Alps.